Fabric Information

Click on bolded statements for links to information and research.

What are 3rd party certifications? Why do third party certifications matter for fabric?

Third-party certification means that an independent group that didn’t make the product, has reviewed, tested, and verified the claims that the company making the product has made. For fabrics, a third party may test the product for all ingredients used throughout the entire process (like GOTS or MADE SAFE), or just for dangerous ones in the finished product (like OEKO TEX).

Third party certifications protect you from healthwashing. Just like greenwashing makes products appear better for the Earth than they really are, some companies intentionally make their products seem healthier for people than they really are, too.

Certifications

What does GOTS certified mean?

GOTS is short for the Global Organic Textile Standard.

It is the gold standard 3rd party certification for organic fabrics made from natural fibers like wool, cotton, linen, and others.

Fabric with the GOTS-certified organic label means that at least 95% of the starting fibers are certified organic, and ensures that the fabric remains healthy throughout the entire manufacturing process. This means the dyes and other chemicals used are safer for human and ecological health than standard fabric processing methods. No harmful finishes may be added to the final product.

What is MADE SAFE certified?

MADE SAFE certification has 6,500 chemicals on their banned/restricted list, which is based on a combination of European Union standards, the Red List, and other international agencies setting standards for products better for human health. While this certainly sounds impressive, I have become a bit more wary of it as I’ve learned more. It applies to fabrics and many other consumer goods, like cleaning products. So, while OEKO TEX “only” has 1,000 banned substances, it’s also primarily focused on textiles. It’s easier to get to 6,500 if you’re including the many chemicals potentially present in cleaning liquids and other things, too. So, this isn’t a direct comparison.

Secondly, the list isn’t a full ban. They state that “Some substances may have category specific allowances or technically unavoidable content, in which case either additional testing or threshold requirements may apply” here, but these limits aren’t published, nor is the list.

The transparency that GOTS, OEKO TEX, and other certifying bodies have, is important, so you know exactly what the limits are. While I’m sure that a MADE SAFE product is safer than one without testing, I now rate it as “OK” until the limits and list are more transparent.

What is OEKO TEX?

OEKO TEX certification applies to the finished product only, and is for both natural and synthetic textiles. Organic fibers, as well as man-made fabrics like polyester can both qualify, depending on what chemicals, and how much of them, are left in the final product. It does allow for some harmful chemicals, but in much lower quantities than are used in standard textile processing. You can see their limits, which are updated annually, here.

What is OEKO TEX Class I?

OEKO TEX has four product classes: I, II, III, and IV. Class I products have met the strictest requirements and limits, and are certified to be safe for babies and toddlers to touch. Babies and toddlers are more vulnerable to harmful exposures because their detoxification systems aren’t fully developed, they engage in hand-to-mouth behavior more often, and their cells are dividing rapidly as they grow, meaning they are more susceptible to mutagenic exposures.

Class II means direct skin contact is safe for adults, and applies to textiles like sheets and pillowcases. Class III and IV are still much safer for you than standard fabric processing— I really want to emphasize that! — and are reserved for items without direct skin contact, decorations, and home textiles you don’t touch very often (like curtains, for example).

What is OCS certified?

OCS stands for the Organic Content Standard. It is a third party certification by the Textile Exchange that is related to the Responsible Down Standard and the Global Recycled Standard. It has two levels: OCS100 means the fiber is at least 95% certified organic, and OCS Blended means 5% of the material is. Like USDA organic, it’s useful for certifying that the fibers themselves are grown organically in agriculture, but it doesn’t address the chemical processing afterward. Unlike USDA Organic certification, it is focused on textile products and other consumer goods, rather than food.

If you get something made with OCS certification, make sure it’s also OEKO TEX certified, ensuring that the chemicals used in processing are minimal, and safe for humans.

Is USDA Organic a useful certification for fabric?

No, not in the context of human health, on this website. USDA Organic applies to how the crop is grown, but not to what happens afterward. While fabric grown without pesticides is certainly a good thing, USDA organic cotton can easily have chemicals added to it during the manufacturing process. This certification applies better to food than to textiles.

What is BCI cotton?

Short for Better Cotton Initiative, BCI cotton is slightly better than conventionally processed cotton. The most toxic fertilizers and pesticides used to grow the fiber are banned, though not all of them. It is also theoretically better for workers and their wages, but it does not cover processing chemicals or what is left in the final product, like GOTS or OEKO TEX does. This is an interesting deep dive into it. I consider it standard processed cotton.